Nestled in the far reaches of the North Atlantic, Svínoy beckons adventurous souls to experience a slice of unspoiled Faroese wonder. This remote island, with its rugged beauty and rich history, offers a glimpse into a world where time seems to stand still and nature reigns supreme.
Svínoy, meaning “Swine Island,” is one of the northeasternmost islands in the Faroe archipelago. Located east of Borðoy and Viðoy, this small yet captivating island covers an area of 27.1 km² (10.5 sq mi). Its dramatic landscape is dominated by Havnartindur, the island’s highest peak, soaring to an impressive 586 meters (1,923 feet) above sea level.
The island’s coastline is a testament to the raw power of the North Atlantic, featuring steep slopes and towering cliffs that plunge dramatically into the sea. Perhaps the most striking of these natural formations is Eysturhøvdi, a 345-meter (1,132 ft) precipice on the north coast that serves as a silent sentinel over the surrounding waters.
Svínoy’s history is as rich and intriguing as its landscapes. Mentioned in the Færeyinga saga, the island boasts a connection to Viking Chief Svínoyar-Bjarni, whose legacy is believed to be commemorated by a headstone in the local church. This ancient link to the Norse past adds an air of mystery and romance to the island’s already compelling allure.
In more recent history, Svínoy played a role in the religious upheavals of the 16th century. In 1583, Jacob Eudensen, a resident of the island, became the last person in the Faroe Islands to be condemned to death for heresy after refusing to renounce his Catholic faith in favor of Lutheranism. This somber event serves as a poignant reminder of the island’s place in the broader tapestry of Faroese history.
Reaching Svínoy is an adventure in itself, one that requires a spirit of flexibility and a love for the unpredictable. The primary mode of transport is the ferry RITAN, which operates three times daily from Hvannasund on Viðoy Island. This 30-minute journey across the Svínoyarfjørður offers breathtaking views of the surrounding seascape and a chance to spot local wildlife.
For those seeking a more exhilarating arrival, helicopter services are also available, providing a bird’s-eye view of the island’s stunning topography. Whichever mode of transport you choose, be prepared for the possibility of weather-related changes to your plans – a common occurrence in this part of the world.
As of November 2020, Svínoy was home to just 31 inhabitants, a number that speaks to the island’s remote nature and the resilient spirit of those who call it home. The sole village, also named Svínoy, is a picturesque cluster of colorful houses nestled against a backdrop of towering mountains and expansive sea views.
The primary occupations on the island are fishing and farming, with sheep outnumbering humans by a significant margin. These woolly residents roam freely across the landscape, adding to the island’s pastoral charm. Visitors might even encounter the island’s famous “social sheep,” known for its friendly demeanor towards humans.
Svínoy’s importance extends beyond its human inhabitants. The island has been identified as an Important Bird Area by BirdLife International, serving as a crucial breeding site for various seabird species. Approximately 25,000 pairs of European Storm Petrels, 10,000 pairs of Atlantic Puffins, and around 100 pairs of Black Guillemots call the island home during nesting season, making it a paradise for birdwatchers and nature enthusiasts.
For hikers and outdoor enthusiasts, Svínoy offers a network of walking paths that showcase the island’s diverse landscapes. One popular route is the hike to Skoragjógv, which starts at Dansistovan and covers approximately 1 km each way. Along this trail, walkers can visit sites steeped in local folklore, such as Svínasteinur, where legend says a sow stopped during the island’s settling, and Dvørgasteinur, associated with tales of midgets residing in large boulders.
As you traverse the island, you’ll be treated to panoramic views of the surrounding seas, neighboring islands, and the ever-changing Faroese sky. The relatively flat terrain makes most walks accessible, but always exercise caution near cliff edges and respect local guidelines to preserve the delicate ecosystem.
Accommodation on Svínoy is limited, reflecting its remote nature. However, the island does offer a free campsite equipped with basic amenities including a kitchen, toilets, and showers. For those seeking a more comfortable stay, arrangements can sometimes be made with local residents.
The island’s sole café, run by a family that relocated from Qatar, offers a cozy atmosphere and reasonably priced local fare. This unique establishment not only serves as a dining venue but also houses a flea market where visitors can discover local treasures.
When planning your visit, remember that Svínoy has no grocery stores, so it’s essential to bring necessary supplies for your stay. Embrace the slow-paced lifestyle of the island, where the only pressing schedule is the ferry back to the mainland.
Visiting Svínoy is more than just a trip; it’s a journey back in time to a place where the rhythms of nature dictate the flow of life. Whether you’re drawn by the island’s rich history, its stunning natural beauty, or the simple desire to experience one of Europe’s most remote communities, Svínoy offers a unique and unforgettable experience.
As you stand atop Havnartindur, gazing out over the vast expanse of the North Atlantic, you’ll understand why this small island has captivated the hearts of travelers and locals alike for centuries. Svínoy may be small in size, but it’s a giant in terms of natural beauty, cultural significance, and the sheer power of its isolation. For those willing to venture off the beaten path, Svínoy awaits, ready to reveal its secrets and create memories that will last a lifetime.
Featured image: Photo by Isak Sandin
